Saturday, July 21, 2007

the most unique city in america

Arrived late in New Orleans just in time to crash a gathering of young volunteers working to improve conditions in this colorful city. In the morning we checked out Bourbon street, briefly, and then headed over some bridges into the lower 9th ward.

Many of the displaced citizens of the lower 9th are still in exodus in Houston and elsewhere. These people largely (65%) owned their own homes and these properties have been passed down in families for generations.

It is extremely difficult to return periodically to their houses to perform the state-mandated upkeep required for their properties. If windows are not intact or boarded up, damaged dry wall remains, or even if the lawn is not mowed, the government demolished the house and seizes the property. Residents are officially given 30 days once the notice/"warning" has been posted on the home's door to meet these requirements, but no effort whatsoever is made to contact the homeowners directly. Residents (countless) have returned to find only their home's foundation, all their possessions destroyed, and their land "claimed" by the government.

Who benefits from this plan of action? Obviously the government stands to make a great profit from the sale of seized land to developers. Home owners paying relatively low taxes will be replaced by light industry, casinos, and "mixed income" housing that can only support a small fraction of the original housing.

A group of volunteers/activists calling themselves the Common Ground Collective provides a spark of hope. Based in the shadows of the still-inadequate levees in the lower 9th, this group is providing services where no other relief is provided. Among many other projects, displaced citizens can contact CG and request help in keeping their lawn mowed, gutting houses, and boarding up windows, in order to stave off property seizure. Their promotional video can be found here.

Learning against the levee and gazing out on what used to be a bustling neighborhood and is now mostly open field is an indescribable and overwhelming experience. In a way, it feels like this space is already a memorial to the natural/human tragedy that began two years ago and continues to this day. But I would be overjoyed if someone took it upon herself to paint a mural honoring the citizens of the lower 9th and drawing attention to a desperate situation that is, for all intents and purposes, completely ignored by big media.

Finally, the music. A night on Frenchmen St. gave a glimpse into the fabulous hybrid culture that is still thriving in N'Orleans. From one point, you can hear four incredible groups performing, all free. The highlight for me was Vavavoom, which synthesized the New Orleans jazz sound with the French Gypsy tradition of Django Reinhardt and his ilk. They perform weekly at the Spotted Cat. Originally planning to sleep in the airport, we lucked out and met two great humans in front of the venue that invited us to stay with them in the garden district.

More to come on New Orleans in a flash...

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